I have a picture from the 70's of a small paddle moose he shoot around here (1 shot in the neck on the run) and loaded it on the back of a VW Beetle to bring out of the mountains. It's name is Moose Killer, because he used it for that and to take down elk. 243 and few years ago from a old friend that was selling it, since he never used it any more. There is a little bit of contradicting info out there on the internet on rings. Hello, I am new to the forum and kind of new to the older Sakos. 22 PPC USA, 6mm PPC USA Also available as single-shot actionġ979/80 AII/L579. 223 Rem Also available as single-shot actionġ987 AI/L461 PPC. 375 H&H Two locking lugs in frontġ974? Sako M74 Super. 30-06, 9.3×62mm Two locking lugs in frontġ972 L61R Finnbear Magnum 7mm Rem Mag. 375 H&H Three locking lugs: Two in front and one on the rear end of the boltġ963 VL63 Finnwolf. 270 Win, 30-06 Three locking lugs: Two in front and one on the rear end of the boltġ961 L61R Finnbear Magnum 7mm Rem Mag. 223 Rem, 7×33mm Sako? Fixed magazineġ961 L61R Finnbear. 308 Win Fixed magazine, later in production detachable as optionġ961 L461 Vixen. 308 Win Fixed magazineġ959 L579 Forester. 375 H&H, ? FN M98 action, Sako stock and barrelġ957 L57. Many more models were made after these when Tika took overġ946 L46 5.6×35mmR. This is from Wikopedia but a good chart, I would consider pre 72 to be collectable and the rest great shooters. He came in to have me put Optilocks on instead, and has had no problems since. That is when he discovered the broken front base, and the overhanging rear. In all, he fired about a dozen rounds after things went south, before he thought to examine his scope mounts. He went back to the previous load, which made things drastically worse. My customer was trying out new loads he had worked up, and was getting progressively smaller groups, when it suddenly started throwing shots all over the paper. I have had customers insist on using Leupold, because that is what they used on all their other rifles, and they had no problems, "because Leupold is the best on the market!" That lasts until I show them the broken front base I took off a Finnlight, which had the rear base over the front of the flat by about a 1/4".
If the base isn't set correctly on the taper, then torqued correctly, the base WILL move forward, as much as 5/16"-3/8", which is enough that the front base will be driven forward enough on the taper that it will break the base. If you want to use Leupold on a Sako, there is no stud to fit into the notch at the rear of the receiver. (A note: where you would normally use high rings in Leupold or Burris, you can use low OptiLocks.)
With the correct torque on the ring caps, and the rings properly torqued to the bases, it is impossible for the scope, rings, and bases to shift under recoil. This accomodates the stud on the bottom of the rear OptiLock base, and keeps the base from shifting forward under recoil. You can see in the picture of the Bavarian that there is a notch in the rear end of the flat on top of the receiver. I have no direct experience with QR mounts on a Sako, but I do have experience with mounting scopes on Sakos using both Leupold and OptiLock systems.īy far the best on a Sako is the OptiLock system.